Darmstadt

While J worked today, the kiddos and I went to the Mathildenhoehe, which is located adjacent to an artist's colony, in Darmstadt.  An exhibition entitled 'Russia 1900:  Art and Culture in the Empire of the Last Tsar' is currently running there until February 2009.

The exhibition featured photographs of Nicholas II and his family including his wife, Alexandra, a native of Darmstadt (some items were on loan from the Hessian State Archives); artwork by the likes of Kandinsky; film footage depicting 'Bloody Sunday' and the First World War; various objects and printed material dating from Nicholas II's coronation in 1896; period furniture, sculptures and crafts among other objects of interest; and text sources provided by Leo Tolstoy among other Russian notables.  

The exhibition was also an opportunity to expose the kiddos to Matty's cultural background as much of the backdrop for the film footage was St. Petersburg.  I explained as much to one of the museum's workers who trailed me and the kiddos at an uncomfortably close distance throughout the first room of the exhibition before she approached me saying, "There have been few children to walk through the exhibition."  Perhaps she was concerned that the kiddos would touch one of the highly accessible exhibit pieces (some pieces were poised on raised platforms with neither ropes nor glass separating them from the viewer).  Hearing that Matty was born in St. Petersburg, the museum worker nodded in approval and was content to allow us to view the rest of the exhibit's rooms unaccompanied.  

Located mere meters from the entrance to the Mathildenhoehe is the only Tsarist church located outside of Russia, Maria Magdalena.  The church was built in the latter part of the 19th century and was commissioned by Tsar Nicholas II as a means to worship in a familiar setting while visiting his wife's family in Darmstadt.  

Mosaic on one facade of the church

Matty immediately recognized the church as Russian Orthodox by its tell-tale onion domes.

Mary Magdalena

Matty standing at the entrance to the exhibit

After the exhibit, the kiddos and I drove to Jeff's office to retrieve him and then on to lunch. Though the kiddos' taste buds are acclimating to the sometimes different German cuisine (carbonated apple juice, cold vegetables covered in yogurt and dill, dark chocolate, and various sausages), they were unprepared for the foamy, hot milk served with their lunch.  I had no idea that I should have specified that the milk be served cold.  Even Matty, who in Russia was accustomed to eating cornflakes with a dollop of yogurt and doused with warm milk, did not care for it.  

Following lunch, we drove to Burg Frankenstein, home to the 12th century fortress/castle that is sometimes said to have inspired Mary Shelley's novel, though the novel is set in Switzerland and one can only conjecture that Shelley visited the castle near Darmstadt prior to writing. The kiddos were not deterred by the site's dubious impact on literature and immensely enjoyed walking through what remains of the fortress looking for 'the green monster, Frankenstein.'

Gate leading into the courtyard

Chairs made from stumps

Littlest enjoyed looking for signs of Frankenstein