Mainz

The rain abated long enough on Saturday to allow the kiddos and I to explore Mainz.  In hindsight, I think I was overtaken by a madness rival to that of George III.  Our excursion to Mainz included parking the van in a garage, an unenviable task that I previously left to J when he was here.  With about three inches to clear the roof and perhaps six on either side, I nervously maneuvered the van into a spot far, far from other vehicles:  not convenient in terms of walking up again, but the distance spared my nerves a bit.  After safely parking the van, we set out to explore!  We visited St Martin's, St Stefan's, walked through the old city, and shopped in the Marktplatz.

The kiddos and I went to the Mainzer Dom (St Martin's), whose construction began in 975 AD.  Fortunately, an organ concert was in progress, so we had the benefit of beautiful music as we walked the grounds and interior.  I talked to the kiddos about the architecture and tried to impart a sense of history and age; a bit surprisingly so, they were rapt with interest or at least feigned it well.  Log was taken in with the reliefs and sculptures.  Bop was intrigued by the crypt.  Littlest and Matty enjoyed the music and looking at the courtyard's flower beds.

A whimsical fountain we encountered as we walked through the altstadt, or 'old city'

A view of St. Stefan's on our approach

Though going to St Stefan's involved a walk (and a hill), I was most anxious to see it as all of the windows were done by Marc Chagall.  Chagall's windows in Reims were impressive, but these windows cast a beguiling light in the church.  Chagall used something like 10 shades of blue in the composition save for the altar windows which included other colors (and were quite reminiscent of Reims). The cathedral entire was filled with a soft blue light and helped to create a tranquil atmosphere.  These windows were to be Chagall's last monumental work; he was 90 when he began the project and died before finishing.

A view of the Mainzer Dom with the market in the foreground

It may appear as though we only eat blackberries here, but the berries are in season, plump, sweet and burst forth with a purple divinity.  This particular blackberry filled the whole of littlest's mouth!  

Anxious hands reaching in to the blackberry basket

Kiddos in front of a flower garden in the altstadt.  For once they were happy to oblige my picture fetish as they welcomed a break from walking!

Log in St Martin's

Kiddos at Rheingold Halle with St Martin's in the background

Each weekend, the Marktplatz in front of St Martin's is filled with a variety of vendors.  Fruit and vegetable stalls were in abundance.  Other stalls included flowers, honey, freshly squeezed juices, spices (I bought Saffron at a remarkably low price), wines, cheeses, charcuterie, and make shift restaurants.  A throng of people shopped the stalls choosing that night's side dishes and flowers.  As opposed to France, one is not welcomed to handle, squeeze and smell the fruit; instead the vendor asks you to indicate the piece you desire and holds it up for your closer inspection.

All of the offerings were in season and remarkably fresh.  The kiddos and I made a full turn of the expansive market before deciding on our picks.  Our bounty included artichokes (gratefully clipped so that there were no sharp ends), apples, figs, honey (to go with the figs), blackberries, Turkish apricots and cherries.  As I was choosing the figs, the gentelmen at the stall offered each of the kiddos a cherry.  Not having seen them, I asked if more cherries were available.  The gentleman indicated a basket containing a few hundred grams worth of cherries.  Cherries are my favorite fruit, and I lament that they aren't readily available year round.  Typically, July finds cherries in season here.  I bought the remaining lot and was overjoyed.  The cherries were nearly the size of plums, a deep burgundy in color, and rapturously sweet (when I came home, I webcammed J expressly to show him the cherries).  After having my picks wrapped in conical brown paper, the kiddos and I made our way to seats situated near a fountain and had a fruit salad for lunch. 

Sunflowers are ubiquitous

Roses were stacked neatly in piles, arranged in nosegays and bouquets.  The price for 10 was Euro 3,50 or slightly over 5 US dollars.  I thought of you Mary, as one stall offered bulbs; we'll have to go to the market when you come!